Which Style of Trek is Right for You?
There are three main ‘styles’ of trekking, so which style of trek has many pros and cons. Which style of trek will depend on your destination, budget, time available and personal preferences. There is no better or worse style, in fact you might find yourself combining styles in some destinations to provide a broader experience.
- Teahouse Trekking on Popular Trails
- Camping Treks with a Camping Crew
- Fast packing / running on a mix of trails with resupply points
Trekking styles
Let’s talk about different ways of trekking the GHT, in fact this also applies to any Himalayan trek. There are three popular ‘styles’ of GHT in Nepal and India – note that only #2 is possible in Bhutan and Pakistan:
1. Teahouse trekking on popular trails
Most trekkers go with a guide for some or most of the route. This is a comfy and convenient way of trekking where you stay in lodges with a fixed menu of easy to make dishes, including the local favourite Dhal Bhat. The majority of popular trails have many teahouses along the entire route. Occasionally, in remoter areas there may not be a convenient teahouse along a route, so you might need to carry a lightweight shelter and dried snacks for those nights. Trekkers very commonly supplement their diet with chocolate bars (like Snickers or Mars bars) and carbonate drinks (including beer). Normally you and the guide travel together to and from the trek.
This is the most common approach to doing the GHT, check out the Trail Talk blog from Kristy and Mike Dixon:
www.greathimalayatrail.com/april-to-august-on-the-ght/


2. Camping treks on trails with a crew
Many trekkers enjoy the comfort and convenience of a fully supported trek with guides and porters who carry tents and equipment (when you want it, otherwise you could stay in teahouses), and make meals for you from produce either carried in (pasta and imported foods) or purchased locally (mostly ‘the basics’ and ingredients for staff Dhal Bhat). Due to the larger group size and limited campsite locations, this is normally a slower way to trek than option 1. Normally, you and a guide will fly together to and from the trek, and the rest of the crew will take a bus or jeep, depending on route.
3.Fast packing / running on a mix of trails with resupply points
This is an increasingly popular approach where you rely on teahouses for meals and self-carried energy bars (bought from home), which you restock in pre-arranged stashes as you go. You will probably need a very lightweight shelter if you chose to go through remote sections. Normally you fly to and from the trek and a guide will meet you at pre-arranged checkposts via bus or jeep as available. Some more information about this style is on Trail Talk:
www.greathimalayatrail.com/across-the-himalaya-with-justin-lichter/

Mix Styles to Suit Your GHT
To make things a bit more complicated, it is possible to take different approaches in different regions – for example, trekking in Kanchenjunga trek with a guide who then leaves you after the Olangchungola checkpost and then returns with re-supplies in Makalu Base Camp. After the high passes, your guide again leaves you from Dingboche, to bring re-supplies to you in the Manaslu region… get the idea? This approach means that you have to be very good at mountain navigation and speak some Nepali, but it reduces costs and solves re-supply issues.
PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING IS SPECIFICALLY RELEVANT TO NEPAL, BUT ALSO MOSTLY APPLIES TO INDIA, LESS SO TO BHUTAN.
In India, additional major issues are issuance of Inner Line Permits, minimum group sizes of 4 foreigners on some trails, interference from military personnel, the need to change trekking operators for different regions and a lack of accommodation in remote areas.
In Bhutan, additional major issues are that pack animals are used instead of porters, a per-day all inclusive permit system that must be managed by a registered company and a lack of accommodation in remote areas.

For information on the cost implications of Which Style of Trek, see How Much Do Treks Cost?
Teahouse Trekking & Fastpacking
Recent years have seen a dramatic increase in both the number and the standard of facilities in villages on the main trails. For example, Namche in the Everest Region now boasts 24-hour electricity, a laundrette, multiple internet cafés, bakeries, and all the trappings of Thamel (the tourist district in Kathmandu) but at 3500m! It is no surprise therefore that teahouse trekking has become incredibly popular.
The teahouse system is now so extensive in Nepal that we are creating a network of GHT Check-In Points that includes the main trails in Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Rolwaling, Langtang, Ganesh and Manaslu Himal, Annapurna, Mustang and most of Dolpo and the Far West. As the system grows, Check-In Points will include some homestays and a few local lodges in Bhutan and India, but trekking in these countries does not have access to teahouse-style accommodation.
In Nepal, fastpacking is becoming increasingly popular as trail quality and services improve across the country. Use of teahouses is essential to be able to minimise carry-weight, and re-supply points (normally at or near official checkposts) are often used to swap equipment, renew clothing, etc. However, local guides are unlikely to be able to maintain the same pace as an experienced trail runner, so do not expect to easily find guides to accompany you.
GHT Check-In Points
In all three ‘styles’ trekkers rely on teahouses and local communities for support, so we are partnering with Local Operators to create Check-In Points along GHT trails, which will:
| Benefits locals economically through the sale of food and fuel as money is recycled and retained in the villages. |
| Reduces environmental burden of porterage by movement of bulk goods rather than many small porterage loads. |
| Improves your safety through improved connectivity along the trail and ensures that your Local Operator can easily connect with you. |
| Improves your GHT experience through skills development programs in sustainability, including food and cooking skills. |
GHT partnering with Local Operators involves more than Check-In Points as we mandate that they also:
| Commit to sustainability policies, actions and targets, including energy efficiency, waste and water management, environmentally sensitive field-practices and Zero-Single Use Plastic. |
| Commit to supporting local communities through direct payments and training. |
| Commit to best practices for all field equipment, safety, hygiene and rescue, including comprehensive risk assessments. |
| Commit to annual reporting of greenhouse gas emissions and social impacts for GHT activities. |
| Provide financial support for in-field sustainability information and materials. |
For more information about Local Partners, Check-In Points and our policies, please see Our Policies.
Trekking with a Guide
Often teahouse trekkers take a guide with them, especially if they are novice trekkers or new to Nepal. Guides are normally hired through a trekking agency in Kathmandu or Pokhara, as professional registration is a necessary qualification to lead groups within National Parks. It is important to make sure your guide has been to, or preferably comes from, the area where you want to trek – it is surprising how many guides have only trekked a few trails.
The role of a guide can encompass a great many activities. Apart from being the person who escorts you along the trail, they can often explain customs, culture, history, flora and fauna. A guide may also manage any porters (should you only want to carry a small pack), ensure your accommodation is booked, transport is confirmed, and that the food is well prepared; in fact, your guide will probably become your personal assistant, man-Friday, guardian and best friend. For this reason, most good guides are normally snapped up by the bigger agencies and accompany groups booked by overseas trekking companies.
There are a few issues that people sometimes complain about regarding guides. One is that a guide might try to convince you to stay in a teahouse that accepts larger groups as they will meet their friends there. This can result in a noisy night and for most people it’s tougher to sleep at altitude, so anything that disrupts sleep is irritating. Another involves the decisions that your guide makes without consultation, like route options. Make sure you have a clear understanding of who makes which decisions. Small groups trekking with a guide may find it difficult to secure rooms or even meals in some teahouses that devote themselves to larger, more profitable parties. If you are a woman trekking alone with a guide be aware that even simple acts can be misconstrued as a proposition (see Trekking as a Single Female).

Tea Houses are often basic but comfy places to stay.

A local guide can add context, translate and become a great friend. Plus teahouses make trail life much more convenient.
Where can you do Solo Treks?
Solo trekking (independent and without a guide) is generally not permitted throughout the Himalaya, especially in Bhutan. However, there are areas in both Nepal and India where you can head to the hills alone:
Solo Trekking Areas In Nepal
The three main trekking regions, Everest, Annapurna and Langtang all permit solo trekking. Plus Makalu, Rolwaling and the Ganesh Himal – in total, about half of the Nepal Himalaya is open to solo trekkers.
Solo Trekking Areas in India
You can trek anywhere on your own in the northwest Indian Himalaya regions so long as you do not need an Inner Line Permit. However, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh do not allow solo trekking.

Doc McKerr on the first solo GHT Nepal trek.
International Companies vs Local Operator Pros and Cons
Booking a trek through an international operator means you don’t get to have any choice of guide, but you do have the reassurance that they are probably going to be excellent and if not, you have recourse to complain. The size of group you will be trekking with becomes important when you choose a ‘packaged trek’. Some companies are still in the habit of sending over twenty trekkers into the hills with a single guide and a few porters, which is irresponsible and doesn’t make for a good holiday. A group size of eight to twelve is normally considered a manageable maximum and you’ll still get the opportunity to chat with your guide and spend time with any crew that they might hire.
One main advantage of hiring your own guide through a local operator and teahouse trekking is that you can control your costs and stay within a budget that would be considerably less than booking with a big travel company. The logistical convenience of having someone with local knowledge handling routine details such as where to stay, negotiating prices, and giving route directions is a great peace of mind.
The safety and security of local knowledge should not be underestimated, nor should the ability to communicate to your heart’s content through your guide’s interpreting. Finally, the chance to build a friendship with someone is perhaps the most remembered feature of any trekking holiday. You might forget the name of the mountains you’ll photograph, but you’ll never forget your guide!

Camping treks with a crew allow you complete freedom to explore the Himalaya. Plus you’ll make a new family of friends along the way
Trekking with a camping crew
The most flexible, comfortable and hygienic way to explore the Himalaya is on a camping trek. To have unrestricted access to trails, viewpoints, and passes you need to be self-sufficient, with the support of a team of experienced staff. For many trekkers their first trip to Nepal will be teahouse based, but the lure of what lies beyond the main trails is so strong they return for a camping trek, often to the more remote areas.
Trekking in Nepal was initially exclusively camping based so there is a substantial experience pool that means even the first-time camper will be comfortable and well looked after. Each morning you will be woken with a mug of tea delivered by a smiling sherpa (as opposed to Sherpas, the famous ethnic group from the Everest Region), followed by a bowl of water to wash your face. Breakfast is preferably served al fresco in the morning sun as your crew packs up the camp. At some point along the day’s trail your cook will have prepared a lunch for you at a scenic spot before you complete your journey to the next campsite and an extensive dinner menu. Shower, toilet and dining tents with tables and chairs complete your campsite and comfort comes courtesy of a foam mattress and pillow (usually an optional extra). In fact, camping in Nepal is frequently more comfortable, quieter and less crowded than teahouses!
Nearly all remote or exploratory treks will be camping based as a group needs to have sherpas and crew available to help cross passes and break trail. The roles of various crew members is normally well defined: the guide (or sirdar) is in charge; the sherpas look after clients on the trail, serve meals and make/break camp; the cook and kitchen staff prepare meals and wash dishes for the group, while the porters carry everything. Normally, a guide discourages trekkers from becoming too friendly with the crew as companies are paranoid they might lose your future business to prospecting staff.
Camping Trek Pros and Cons
With the increasing popularity of teahouse trekking, companies that specialise in camping treks are becoming more competitive so it is important to check the details of your trek before you depart. The two most common ways companies cut costs are: firstly, increasing the amount of load the porters carry and not providing them with necessary clothing and equipment (see the International Porter Protection Group, : www.ippg.net for how you should care for your porters and your obligations towards them); secondly, either the agency or the cook reduces the money dedicated to your food and fuel allowance. It is important that the group leader should keep an eye on the quantity and quality of stocks.
The obvious drawbacks to camping-style treks are perceived inconvenience and potentially having to share a tent with someone you would rather not sleep next to. To resolve both issues research is necessary. Camping really is more convenient than teahouses on the condition that you have a slightly flexible itinerary, so you can ensure washing and relaxing time for all, especially when the weather is good. Almost all camping groups offer single occupancy tents but you normally have to specify when you book, and you should always check the terms and conditions.
Local Camping Styles Differ
Fully Supported Treks in Nepal, India and Bhutan offer pretty similar levels of service combined with their own unique flavour!
Nepal

India

Bhutan

Nepal has a long history of running camping treks supported by porters, which is also common in India, but increasingly in both countries, pack animals are becoming more common. Bhutan prefers to use pack animals for all treks, which can pose problems on more technical routes, especially when some bad weather is forecast.
Final Words About Which Style of Trek
For many, camping trek drawbacks are easily mitigated and, in fact, are overwhelmed by the advantages of camping-style treks. Choosing your own path and rest spots offers a level of itinerary customisation that not even teahouses in the most popular regions can compete with. The main benefit, however, is being able to explore remoter regions away from the main trails and meet some of the inhabitants of the wild Himalaya. It is hard to believe that there are still many villagers who have never seen a tourist, where communities greet you as an honoured guest and not as an opportunity to make another buck. Away from the main routes is where you’ll most likely see many of the species for which the Himalaya is famous: red panda, black bear, musk deer, snow leopard and a multitude of birds.
For many trekkers and trek leaders, camping-style treks are their favourite method of exploring Nepal. They often say that their experience feels more genuine. Camping brings you closer to nature, and the camaraderie built around a campfire often outlasts that of a teahouse.
Time for the Next Step
Now that you’ve decided which style of trek, female trekkers should check out Trekking as a Single Female. Then everyone should go through Trek Duration and Grade to decide ‘how far’ and ‘how hard’!

