After an early start, you should reach Machhakhola after lunchtime and have time to relax in the afternoon with views of the Budhi Gandaki river.

We follow the dirt road north out of the village and soon reach Khorlabesi (970m, 1 hour) and then on to Tatopani (990m, 1 hour) where the waterspouts make a good washing stop. At the end of the village, cross a suspension bridge to the true left (east) bank and continue through sometimes dense forest to Dobhan (1070m, 1.5 hours), where there are teahouses.

Continue on a broad trail on the true left bank of the river to Yaruphant (1170m, 1 hour), where there are a few teashops on a broad grassy slope. From here, the trail climbs about 200m up what was once an enormous landslide that blocked the Budhi Gandaki. The trail descends a little from the top of the climb to the broad riverbed. In the trekking seasons, there are some temporary teashops (1.5 hours from Yaruphant) at the confluence of the Yara Khola.

Vertical cliffs rise on both sides of the valley as a spectacular trail continues on the true left (eastern) bank for 15 minutes to a bridge, which you cross to the true right bank and where the Budhi Gandaki has cut a narrow gorge. After a short climb and descent of 20 minutes, you reach a flat area where there is a teashop and two grassy campsites signposted ‘Jagat’. The village is 10 minutes further up the trail, behind a rocky spur. As you enter Jagat (1340m) on a good stone-paved trail, there is a community-owned campsite on your left and some teahouses before the Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) and police checkpost. Jagat is a common village name in the high mountains as it means ‘customs post’ and is the traditional tax collection point for trade to and from Tibet. 

Beyond the village is the Pangaur Khola, which is crossed using stepping stones and log bridges. The trail now climbs an easy gradient to a chautara (1 hour), where there are good views of Shringi Himal to the north. Descend to Sirdibas (1420m, 40 mins) and turn a sharp left turn at the end of the village to ascend a stream for about 50m before turning sharp right for the main trail. Continue to a suspension bridge, which you cross to the true left bank of the Budhi Gandaki (there is a police checkpost at the bridge), and then climb 200m to the village of Phillim (1570m, 40 minutes), another MCAP checkpost and teahouses.

This next section of trail is spectacular and well worth the effort of a long day’s walk. Ekla Bhatti (1650m) is about 45 minutes from Phillim, but take your time and admire the waterfalls on the west side of the valley. After the monsoon, there is a large waterfall beyond Ekla Bhatti, after which you enter a scrubby forest that gives way to large pine trees. Forty minutes from Ekla Bhatti you reach a trail junction, where you turn left (the right-hand trail goes to Tsum, see pp000-00). Descend (5 minutes) to and cross a bridge, where the trail begins a gradual climb as the valley turns westwards. After the initial climb away from the bridge there is a small trail junction where you turn right (the left trail climbs steeply to Nyak).
Another bridge across the Budhi Gandaki is reached in 45 minutes, which you cross to the true left (north) bank to avoid a steep cliff. In another 15 minutes, you cross back to the true right (south) bank using a suspension bridge. In 20 minutes, you will reach Pewa and the junction with the high trail from Nyak (this is where you join the Circuit trail from Rupina La). It’s a good campsite and teahouses at Deng (1860m), which is now 30 minutes away along a pleasant trail with good views of the narrow gorge cut by the Budhi Gandaki.

As the Manaslu Circuit trail turns westwards, the shape of the homes changes to squat, dry-stone structures to reflect the changing demands of climate and the architectural influences of Tibet. Mani walls, chorten, and kani are common along the trail. Rice and wheat are replaced by buckwheat, barley, and maize in the fields. The trail descends to a suspension bridge, which you cross to the true left (north) bank of the Budhi Gandaki and then climbs roughly 100m to Rana (1910m, 35 minutes).

The trail now climbs an easy gradient beneath the village of Umbaie (above which is Shringi Gompa) before winding through the Shringi Khola gorge to Bhi (1990m, 45 minutes). Follow an undulating trail through sparse pine trees and hamlets to a large kani (1½ hours) that marks the entry to the Prok and Ghap communities. The paintings and mani stones on this kani are in good condition. The fierce blue and red characters on the kani ceiling and walls are protectors who are meant to stop evil spirits from entering the villages beyond. There is a teahouse and campsite at Prok, only 10 minutes further on.

The trail now gradually swings back to the river, which you cross to the true right bank via a suspension bridge. It’s a slight climb to Ghap, where there are a couple of teashops. The valley narrows and you pass through fine broad-leaf forest to a spectacular canyon carved by the river (45 minutes), which you re-cross in another 15 minutes on a larger bridge.
Note: the Himal Chuli Base Camp trail veers left here and climbs the Sherang Khola valley.
From the second bridge, the trail climbs more steeply for almost an hour to Namrung (2630m), where there is a campsite and teahouses.

Leave Namrung by crossing Therang Khola along an easy trail that passes a waterfall on your left before entering the scattered village of Barchham (20 minutes). The trail now climbs a bit less than 300m on an easy gradient to Lihi (2920m, 50 minutes), where there is a campsite and teahouses. Descend and cross the Hinan Khola on the far side of the village and ascend an easy trail to Sho (2880m, 45 minutes). It is now an easy uphill gradient to Lho (3180m, 1 hour), where there is a campsite and teahouses, but take your time and enjoy the evolving mountain panorama around you.
Manaslu dominates the skyline at Lho and if you have the time explore the village’s mani walls, kani, and Ribang Gompa, which sits on a hill above the village. The trail descends to the Thusang Khola and then climbs a steady gradient for 300m to Shyala (80 minutes), a community of mainly log cabins where there is another campsite and teahouses. Next, the trail dips through the Numla Khola before descending slightly and then becoming flat to Sama (Ryo; 3520m, 70 minutes), where there are teahouses and campsites to choose from at the far end of the village.

It is a good idea to spend a day in Sama (Ryo) exploring the village and/or some of the surrounding viewpoints as part of an acclimatisation programme. One of the most popular places to visit is the Pung Gyen Gumba beneath the east face of Manaslu. To get there, backtrack on the Shyala trail to a junction before the Numla Khola, where you turn right and begin a long and sometimes steep climb for 2 hours and 20 minutes. Once you have crested the ridge above the river the gradient eases and ahead you will see the small gompa. You will be expected to provide a donation to the gompa if you visit it. Higher still is a cave gompa and hot springs, but relaxing in the grassy kharka near the gompa and enjoying the view of Manaslu is a popular pastime before returning to Sama in 1½ hours. Alternatively, explore the village and gompas of Sama, or take a local guide to Birendra Kund for reflections of Manaslu and its northern icefall. 

An easy day to Samdo can be combined with a side trip to Birendra Kund. Leave Sama on a broad trail that runs north from the village across grassy kharkas. Remain on the western side of the valley, following a trail that runs parallel to the Budhi Gandaki. After 45 minutes cross the outflow from Birendra Kund to the summer herding area of Kermo Kharka where there is an excellent view of Manaslu from the impressive mani wall.
The trail continues to climb an easy gradient for an hour before dropping to a bridge over the river. Climb to an impressive kani, which marks the entry to Samdo (3875m, 30 minutes). This is a Tibetan refugee settlement of about 40 homes, created after the Chinese occupation of Tibet. The border runs along the top of the hills above Samdo and makes an ideal side trip.

From Samdo the trail descends to a bridge across the Gyala Khola. Climb the trail on the far side to a large pile of mani stones (40 minutes), where you can look down on Larkye Bazaar, a trading ground (there are no buildings as such) where Tibetans sell large herds of goats before the Nepali festival of Dashain in October/November. The trail now climbs an easy gradient with views of Larkye Peak and the north face of Manaslu for 2 hours and 20 minutes to Larkye La Dharamsala (4460m), where there is a teahouse. Take some time to check that you are well prepared to cross the pass tomorrow.

The longest and toughest section of the Manaslu Circuit now awaits, but also the most magnificent views – Himalayan majesty and grandeur all around. It is wise to start before sunrise and climb an ablation valley to view of Cho Danda. Although there are some prayer flags at the top of the Ablation Valley (4690m, 80 minutes) you are not at the top of the pass. The trail now crosses rough undulating moraines for 30 minutes to another dharamsala (4905m). From here the trail begins to climb more steeply to the top of Larkye La (5135m, 1¾ hours), where you will be greeted by magnificent views of the upper Bimtang valley and a roofless dharamsala. Views of Himlung and Cheo Himals, Gyagi Kang, Menjung, Kang Guru, and Annapurna II fill the horizon. Descend from the pass down a steep slope, which is often snow-covered and icy (and may require a handline), for 1½ hours. Beneath you are three glaciers spotted with numerous turquoise lakes; head for the ablation valley to the left of all the glaciers. An easy gradient then leads down to the campsite at Bimtang (3590m, 2 hours), which is serviced by four competing teashops staffed by pretty Gurung women.

Continue to follow the ablation valley south from Bimtang, which soon gives way to lateral moraine after 10 minutes. There are good views of the west face of Manaslu from here. Cross a branch of the glacial melt and then turn left, over some more moraine before crossing the main stream of glacial melt and then climbing a ridge of lateral moraine topped by some prayer flags (20 minutes).
The trail descends a little steeply through pine and rhododendron forest for 15 minutes before levelling to a gentle downhill gradient. As you descend towards the Dudh Khola through forest the trail passes through a few kharka. There is a lone teashop at Yak Kharka (aka Sangure Kharka, 3020m, 80 minutes) after a copse of mountain pepper trees. From here the trail can be a little difficult to follow across some large landslides and through scrubby forest to the scattered settlement of Kharche (1 hour).

The trail now climbs an imposing ridge that juts into the centre of the valley before a long descent to the many fields of Goa (2515m, 1.5 hours), where there are two teahouses. It is now a gentle downhill to the large Gurung village of Tilije (2300m, 50 minutes), where you cross a bridge pass a new school, and begin road-trekking again. After 20 minutes you come to a trail junction; turn right and descend to Thonje (1965m, 50 minutes), which you reach after crossing a long suspension bridge. Once at the village continue on the road to a T-junction in front of a teahouse. Turn left onto a dirt track and pass the school; after a short descent, cross a suspension bridge over the Marsyangdi river to Dharapani (1965m, 10 minutes), where there is a police checkpost and many comfortable teahouses. 

A road has been built from Besisahar to Manang, so you can take a jeep service from Dharapani and then you can transfer to a bus in Besisahar for services to Pokhara or Kathmandu.