Visas and Permits

OK, so Visas and Permits are a hot topic and we’ve lost count of the questions that we receive, especially for Nepal. Despite the GHT having been a government priority, permits to trek in Nepal have never been more complicated or expensive. And then there are the tourist visas!

But don’t worry, wherever you want to trek, there is a system in place that a trekking agent can handle. If you have the patience and spare time, why not do it yourself?

Following is a review of the current visa and permit situations in each country, first Nepal, then India and finally Bhutan, which is by far the simplest.

PLEASE CHECK ALL COUNTRY WEBSITES FOR COVID-RELATED ENTRY VISA RULES AND CONDITIONS. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE GET IN TOUCH.

Nepal: Visas and Permits

Barely a year goes by without a change to the entry visa regulations to Nepal. You can check arrangements with one of the Nepali embassies or consular offices, but the most reliable source of information is currently the Nepal Department of Immigration website (www.nepalimmigration.gov.np).

Tourist Visas

Many tourists organise a visa prior to arrival in Nepal by applying through the Department of Immigration website (www.online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa). It is also possible to apply for a visa on arrival in Kathmandu at Tribhuvan International Airport (currently US$125 for 90 days, US$50 for 30 days, US$30 for 15 days, payable in a range of major currencies or Visa or MasterCard, see below for more information). The visa available on arrival tends to be cheaper than applying for one from an embassy or consular office. Other entry points are Kodari (on the Tibet border and normally only open for groups), and nine overland borders with India, for current details see the website.

Permits: How Much to Budget and Why Should We Have to Pay?

Nepal is incredibly rich in terms of natural and cultural beauty, a true treasure in the Himalaya that is there for all of us to appreciate. However, it remains a very poor country economically. This will become abundantly clear as you trek through remote regions, especially the far west in which many communities lack electricity and running water. Children often walk for days to reach the nearest school. It is remarkable that with all of these challenges the government has chosen to protect so many areas and your fees do help support this. Yes there is always mismanagement, corruption etc but there are also visible positive impacts. Please consider this in your decisions on how and where to hike.

The typical GHT trekker will pay just over $1,000 per person for permits. This includes the $500 Upper Dolpo permit. Yes, this seems like a lot when one can hike the PCT in the US and pay $0 for permits. Please keep in mind most public lands in developed countries are supported by billions of tax dollars. So if you hiked the PCT and had a great time, please thank the taxpayers for their support in enabling your hike. In developing countries, the government must focus limited resources on healthcare, education and infrastructure. We are not aware of a single person who thinks their GHT hike wasn’t worth the cost of the permits, we promise.

Trekking Permits and Entry Fees

In Nepal there are two kinds of permit required areas:

1. Protected Areas – 

•  National Parks, Wildlife Reserves and Conservation Areas.
• One time fee per entrance
• 1,000-3,000 NPR (~$15-20 USD)
• Consistent implementation/enforcement 
• Solo Trekking is fine
• Payable at entrance gates locally
• Official list: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/park-entry-fees

2. Restricted Areas –

• Designed to limit the impact on sensitive communities and border areas.
• Pay by number of days with a fixed minimum (which is normally enough)
• $20-100 / week ($500/week for Upper Dolpo and Upper Mustang)
• Uneven implementation and enforcement (some areas are not implemented at all, some are strictly enforced, many are inconsistent)
• Permits must be issued in Kathmandu through an application by a local operator
• A guide is required technically  (see note on Uneven implementation and enforcement)
• Minimum of two trekkers per permit (Solo hikers tend to join up – at least on paper)
• Official Fee List (does not match reality on the ground): https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/trekking-permit

One of the goals for the new digitization project is to make the boundaries of areas where permits and guides are required much more clear. See below for a map of these areas and a link to an interactive version.

Below is a map showing the Protected and Restricted Areas (some of which are not implemented).

Yes it looks like a lot, but keep in mind most areas have a low fee ($20-50$) and many areas are not implemented or the GHT will take you through a non-standard entry point where paying the fee or permit checking won’t be possible. That said, we encourage you to pay for a permit whenever possible. It’s actually awesome that Nepal has protected so much of the precious himalayan environment. 

Note: Things in Nepal are always in flux, the rules and areas are ambiguous, and the reality on the ground is often different. This is our attempt to communicate our best information. If your experience differs please let us know. 

Here is a interactive map on CalTopo: https://caltopo.com/m/PN2J1S4

And here is the same info on Google My Maps

RED Restricted Areas (lighter Red areas are typically not needed for the classic GHT route), 

BLUE Protected Areas, 

PINK GHT Trekking Route (showing Technical and Non-tech options), 

GREEN Running Route

List of Protected Areas:

• https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/park-entry-fees

List of Restricted Areas:

• https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/trekking-permit

Other Registrations

A final formality is to register online, or in Kathmandu, with your embassy or consulate or register at the Himalayan Rescue Association (www.himalayarescue.org.np). If there is no consulate, find out which, if any, country represents your country in Nepal. This can be determined from your Foreign Affairs Department, or corresponding office, in your country.

The essential information required by your embassy is your name, an emergency contact number, passport number and itinerary. It is also a good idea to provide the contact details of your hotel and trekking agency in Nepal should you need to be contacted. One major benefit of this process is to facilitate your rescue and repatriation should it be necessary.

Getting though Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu

*****PLEASE NOTE THAT THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS ARE LIKELY TO CHANGE ANY MOMENT****

Follow the step by step process outlined below to help you get through the potential chaos of the airport in Kathmandu with a little more ease.

• Step 1: Self service machines for your visa application and Arrival Card. The Arrival Cards are small slips of paper, normally in piles on the tables to your left as you enter the immigration hall. Take one and complete it while you are in the queue for Step 2. Then proceed to the self-service visa application machines, which are a little further on your left. Have your passport ready as well as the name of your hotel. (don’t worry about the street name, just type in anything) and request a 15, 30 or 90 day visa.  If you need assistance, there should be someone to help you.  The machine will print out a ticket that you will give to the payment counter as well as the immigration official in Step 3.
• Step 2: Pay for the visa.  Go to the counter that it at the far end of the hall when you entered.  Have US cash ready $30, $50 or US$125 depending on the length of you visa (15, 30 or 90 days). You can also request to pay by credit card, but this will delay you until there are enough other people who also want to pay this way.  They will give you a receipt.
• Step 3: Immigration.  Go to the designated immigration counter for your visa duration.  Give them your passport, the completed Arrival Card, the ticket from Step 1 and payment receipt.
• Step 4: X-Ray. Go downstairs (escalator) and line up to go through a metal detector and to put your carry-on luggage and handbags through an X-ray machine.  They are looking for smuggled gold (not your jewelry or watches etc.).  This can be a bit uncomfortable as there may be a lineup back to the bottom of the escalators and they squeeze all arrivals through two machines.  You may have to take off your belt and watch.
• Step 5: Luggage pick-up.  As you get past the x-ray machines you will face the madhouse of the luggage pick-up area.  Pick up a cart nearby, if needed.  You may have to wait some time for your luggage to come out to the carousel.  Check for which carousel has your luggage, and if it does not come, check the other carousels, as they are not always on the assigned one. If there are many bags on the carousel, airport staff will have already started taking some off in a haphazard way, so if you can’t see your bag look around for a place where it might have been left.
• Step 6: Luggage check.  Make sure that you have you boarding pass with the luggage ticket taped to the back.  There will be someone looking at them to make sure you are picking up your own bags.  Go towards the right of the carousels and turn fight toward the exit. There is a possibility your luggage will be X-Rayed again if customs suspect your are bringing in precious metals and/or religious artifacts.
• Step 7: Getting out of the building.  Continue past the baggage check people and you will see the door.  There are pre-paid taxi counters here and a place to buy NCell SIM cards. If comeone is meeting you, they will be waiting outside and hotel pick-ups are grouped together on the far side of the access road.

Congratulations! You are now in Nepal!

India: Visas and Permits

In comparison, the tourist visa application process is amazingly simple compared to Nepal. Just make sure you apply through the official Indian Government website (www.indiavisaonline.gov.in) and not through on-sellers.

So, that’s the good news! Also trekking anywhere away from Inner line areas is also super easy and paper-free. However, the whole situation changes when you need an Inner Line Permit (ILP).

Finding out which permit you need, how to apply for it and then tracking the people down who will actually issue it is a major challenge. If you do not have spare time or patience it is recommended you work through a local trekking operator. But beware, many operators promise much and deliver nothing. Throughout the process remain calm, confident and in good humour.

Magistrate Letter for Darma Valley / Johor (Milam) Valley / Kagudi Bhel Pass / Darma valley, Ralam Dhura and descent to Budgyari (near Munsyari).

All require permission from a magistrate who will CC a letter to each ITBP post and the other magistrates. This is not hard to get but does involve some running around:

1. Find where a Divisional Magistrate (DM, in Pithoragarg) or Sub-Divisional Magistrate (SDM, in Darchula, Didihat and Munsyari) is currently working as holidays/festival/field trips mean they are not always in their office.
2. Take all key staff (guide, cook, etc) and clients. If possible take all staff.
3. Have photo ID for everyone (tourists – passport original and copies, visa copies, photos, locals – driving licence or similar)
4. Provide copies of health certificates (from your GP or local doctor) for each tourist.
5. Write a letter similar to the following, present it with a nice smile and be patient.

SAMPLE LETTER FOR INNER LINE PERMIT APPLICATION

This letter format may need to be adjusted due to Covid-19 or other additional requirements – please check with the issuing office before submission.

Your Address
Magistrate Name                            Date
Magistrate Address

Dear Sir,

Re: Trekking group from <Start> to <End> via <all major passes and ITBP posts>

We are writing to inform you of our intention to trek from <Start> to <End> via <major passes> beginning from the <Start Date> and finishing on the <End Date>. We are a group of highly experienced trekkers and field staff who are qualified*, trained in first aid*, have adequate medical and evacuation insurance* and are all in excellent health and physical fitness.

We request that you provide us with a letter that has been circulated to all relevant authorities notifying them of out intended route, to permit free passage and not to obstruct our progress at any time. Below is a copy of our itinerary by day and attached are copies of passports, visas or photo ID where appropriate, health certificates and photos for each member of trek.

ATTACH or INCLUDE:

1. Day-to-Day Itinerary
2. Day – Camp – make sure you include the name of every ITBP post and major village you intend to pass
3. Group List – first clients then crew
4. Name – job title (trekker, guide, cook, etc) – place of residence (Country or state within India)

Sign and date by group leader

Bhutan: Visas and Permits

Many people say that Bhutan is a super expensive place to visit, but when you consider what is included in the price it actually works out to be less than 10% more expensive than a camping trek in Nepal!

BUT forget about solo, independent trekking anywhere… it’s only groups (can be only of one person) and fully packaged camping treks.

So when you book a trek in Bhutan, all of your visas and permits are included in the price and the travel agent does all the running around… take a big sigh of relief… and that’s why Bhutan is such a relaxing, rejuvenating, wonderful place to go… it’s just so easy.

The Last Step is Now – Travel Insurance

An essential component of any adventure activity is being prepared for the worst case, so now time to take Travel Insurance and Rescue seriously…