A 2-hour taxi or bus ride from Pokhara brings you to Birethanti (1025m) and the metal bridge to the true right bank of the Modi Khola where you register at the ACAP checkpost. From the checkpost, continue to drive on a rough dirt road to Banthanti (2430m, 2 hours), where you can rest some cramped legs after a long day.
You can also walk from Birethanti, which takes about 5.5 hours by following the road west as it follows the Bhurungdi Khola on the true left bank. You must remain on this bank of this river all the way to Tikhedhungga. It is an easy gradient as you ascend to Lamdawali (1160m), Sudame (1340m), Hile (1430m), and on to Tikhedhungga (1540m, 2.5 hours), where the trail now steepens to well-made stone steps; apparently, there are 3280 of them! You should reach the Magar village of Ulleri (1960m) in 2 hours, where there are comfy teahouses and views of Annapurna South and Hiun Chuli. In less than 1 hour you will come to Banthanti (2210m).

Follow the main trail as it climbs for another 1.5 hours to Nangge Thanti (2430m), where there are good teahouses that make an ideal rest stop. Continue climbing for another 1 hour along the same track to reach Ghorepani (2860m), a large village with a police checkpost at the entry. Rather than staying in the main village, continue up to the ridge above, Deurali (2858m, 20 minutes) where the teahouses boast the best views of the Annapurnas, which dominate the skyline. To the west is the huge bulk of Dhaulagiri and the unseeable depths of the Kali Gandaki gorge.

The panorama of Machhapuchhare and the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges from Poon Hill is one of the classic Himalayan views. It takes about 1.5 hours to reach the top of Poon Hill (3200m) and many trekkers get up early to enjoy the sunrise. There is a wooden viewing tower on the summit but you will need to be early to beat the crowds and get a good vantage point; remember to take water and a snack. The crowds will begin to thin out about an hour after sunrise as people head down to their teahouse for breakfast and prepare for the day’s trek.
The Poon Hill–Ghorepani Ridge marks a cultural change as well as being a wonderful viewpoint. So far you have been trekking through Gurung communities but now you enter Magar villages. Sometimes, there is a little friction between the two ethnic groups as many of the businesses developed for trekking (teahouses, etc) are controlled by Gurungs. Annapurna-Dhaulagiri Community Trail is exclusively Magar-controlled and it is interesting to see how Nepali people are both proud of their heritage and understand that diversity adds flavour and contrast to mountain tourism.

From the centre of Ghorepani follow the main trail north as it rapidly heads downhill. In 1 hour you reach the new dirt road at Chitre where you turn left (west) and in a few minutes come to a corner where a small ACAP sign points towards Khopra Ridge.

The trail heads down through scrubby forest and bears left into a tributary gully, which you follow straight down to a bridge over the Ghara Khola (2100m, 30 minutes). Cross the river and then a 20-minute climb brings you to the two teahouses in Swanta (2230m), you might need to ask around to find them as road construction has broken some of the old trails. You should check here that the lodges ahead will be open. The morning view of Dhaulagiri from this village is very impressive.

The trail gradually climbs northeast into the Dhasta Khore Khola, with occasional loose sections but nothing difficult. Blue and white painted trail markers are obvious along the whole trail and in less than 1.5 hours come to a waterfall beside a small bridge (2348m) over the Khola. Locals claim that they sometimes see tigers drinking here! A short climb brings you to a lovely ‘Rest Cottage’ (2501m, 15 minutes), which makes an excellent snack or lunch stop.

It is now a long climb through the rhododendron forest to Chhistibang (aka Dhankharka, 2995m, 1.5 hours) where a couple of teahouses can provide lunch. It is worth checking with the locals in Swanta before you leave, just to make sure someone is here! If you want to break the climb into two days, this is the only place to stop.
Continue climbing through the rhododendron forest to a major trail junction at 3474m (1.5 hours). You will return here tomorrow, so make sure you familiarise yourself with the trail options. To reach Khopra Ridge you turn left (west) passing between some boulders before climbing across a grassy hillside to a ridge. Stay on an obvious trail, which follows the ridge to the teahouses at Khopra Ridge (3651m, 1 hour). There is normally only one teahouse operating, and again it is worth checking in Swanta that it is open.
The views of Annapurna, Annapurna South, and Dhaulagiri are fantastic in both evening and morning light!

After enjoying the great views over breakfast, retrace your steps to yesterday’s trail junction (45 minutes) and take the trail to Bayeli. This is a small, undulating trail and feels a little exposed at times. There is a very good chance of spotting Bharal (Blue sheep) along this trail as well as many Daphne pheasants. After a long hill-side traverse, you reach a small stream and then climb through a rhododendron forest to Bayeli (3405m, 4 hours). The sense of peace and stunning views from the dining room of the pretty teahouse make it hard to believe you are in the most popular trekking region in the Himalaya!

Today begins with a short climb to the ridge above Bayeli and then a truly fantastic ridge walk. Wildlife is common along this trail so take your time, enjoy the views, and spot as many birds and wild sheep as you can!
Dobato has a few teahouses (3376m, 2.5 hours) and makes a good lunch stop if you have taken your time. You now trek through pristine forest to Isharu (3087m, 1.5 hours) where there are a few teahouses. The trail becomes easier as you descend about 250m before following an undulating trail through mixed forest. Entering the extensive village of Tadapani (2655m, 1.5 hours) feels like returning to civilisation!

From Tadapani the trail winds through a beautiful oak forest with great views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare to the large village of Ghandruk (1940m, 2.5 hours), where there are plenty of teahouses with magnificent morning views of Machhapuchhare. 

You can take a taxi from the lower village back to Birethanti or to Pokhara. The walk along the road to Birethanti is very dusty and takes about 4 hours.