Fly to Bhadrapur and then take a bus or jeep to the large Limbu settlement of Taplejung (1820m). Chartered helicopter flights can go straight to Suketar, a small airstrip 2 hour downhill walk away from Taplejung.

We begin with a very early jeep drive to Sukathum (1576m, 5 hours). Our trek begins beside the raging Tamur River before climbing the true left bank of the Ghunsa Khola, following a trail through dense forest until the valley narrows into a deep gorge (2 hours). Waterfalls cascade down both sides of the valley; the sound of the river will make conversation difficult. Locals have built a stone walkway beneath a cliff-face along the river’s waterline, which makes for some great pictures but care is needed at all times. After negotiating this section, there is another hour of dense forest trail before you cross a bridge at the base of a steep climb. Switchbacks ascend 350m (2 hours) before the gradient eases, about 1 hour before Amjilosa (2308m).

The trail leaving Amjilosa wastes no time in climbing a minor ridge to a sharp turn to the north (30 mins). The forest is dense and dark as you again descend towards the Ghunsa Khola at Thyanyani (2405m, 1 hour) and the first of a few slippery log bridges across streams. There are a few small stone shelters here which are normally only used by herders in monsoon.
For the first time, the trail doesn’t seem to continually climb up and down, as the valley widens slightly and feels less claustrophobic. After the third bridge (2 hours) the trail climbs another steep track for roughly 300m (2 hours), the last section beside a stream can be slippery so care is needed. You crest the climb and find yourself on the outskirts of the picturesque village of Gyabla (Kyapra, 2730m). For those with time and energy there is a pleasant walk up behind the village with views of the Birdhungga Danda.

After the previous week this day marks a noticeable change in the flora and fauna along the trail. At first, the trail seems much like that of the previous afternoon; a broader valley bottom permits views of the river and hillsides, which continue for 1½ hours. Then the trail climbs for 200m (1 hour) and suddenly you notice rhododendron, camellias and azaleas rather than bamboo and cardamom beside the trail. The village of Phale (Phere, 3140m) is spread over a large area. The first houses are the winter village for Ghunsa, before the village proper (30 mins). This is a Tibetan refugee settlement where it’s possible to buy handicrafts and homemade rugs from some of the locals, ask around when you arrive and potential sellers will soon find you! From Phale a pretty trail winds through dwarf conifer and pine forest before crossing a suspension bridge (to the true left bank) and arriving at Ghunsa (3595m, 1½ hours) in a broad section of valley. Waterfalls fall from the steep cliffs above this Sherpa village that feels like the edge of nowhere on a cloudy day.

As you have now passed the 3000m mark, it is wise to take an acclimatisation rest day at Ghunsa. You can relax and explore the village. Sherpa hospitality is legendary and the local school is proud to show off its computer (you can charge your phones here for a donation).
Alternatively, explore the Yamtari Khola which boasts a fantastic view of Jannu (7711m) from the south – first follow the water pipe for the village hydro-generator and climb on the true right side of the river until you reach some herders’ huts, then cross boulders to reach the viewpoint. This valley is also the route to the disused and dangerous Lapsang La (5161m), as well as Sele La (4290m) and Sinion La (4440m) both of which offer interesting route variations to/from Yalung if you have camping gear.

Deodar pine and rhododendron forest, grassy glades dotted with wild flowers, and increasingly spectacular mountain scenery combine into what is perhaps the most impressive section of trail along the entire trek. It will take about 1½ hours to reach a bridge that crosses to the true right bank of the Ghunsa Khola and Rampuk Kharka (3720m). Note that the bridge is often blocked with sticks to prevent yaks from wandering. The trail now climbs almost 400m past, and then through, a large landslide (beware of rockfall) beside the terminal moraine of the Kanchenjunga Glacier to 4100m (2½ hours). A brief traverse of the hillside offers a good view of Jannu before descending to the yak farming settlement of Khangpachen (Khambachen, 4050m, 1½ hours).

The trail away from Khangpachen is surprisingly easy as you gradually climb scrubby lateral moraine for one hour. Then comes perhaps the hardest and most dangerous section of the entire trek, a climb up a long section of landslide, mostly across large boulders, which takes about 2½ hours. It is wise to keep moving, however slowly, across this section and complete the climb as early as possible as the risk of rockfall increases throughout the day. Once across the stream from the waterfall section the trail climbs steeply (beware of rockfall) for a short section to the top of an ancient lateral moraine at 4670m (a popular lunch stop), where the gradient eases as you cross some scrubby and grass-covered moraine. On the far side is the Lhonak Khola, which you follow to a seasonal bridge and stone shelters at Lhonak (4780m, 2 hours).

The trail from Lhonak climbs gently along the massive lateral moraine of the Kanchenjunga glacier for the first 2 hours. It’s hard not to stop and admire the views of the peaks and the glacier below. A short steep section of loose rock and landslide formed by a side river will take 40-60 minutes to cross. The trail then climbs more gently for another hour before you reach stone huts of Pangpema and Kanchenjunga Base Camp (5143m). Expedition groups will probably not have a permanent camp here as an advanced base camp across the glacier has become a preferred spot.

Get ready for an amazing day! We rise super early to retrace a little of yesterday’s route before a slow climb to a simply amazing viewpoint on the north side of the valley. We take it one step at a time until we reach the 6000m point and enjoy a spectacular panorama or the entire Kanchenjunga Massif! Then we descend back to Lhonak and a well-earned rest for the night.

The days pass easily walking downhill following the route that made us work on the way up. But with memories still so fresh in our mind, we reach Taplejung for a team dinner party!

It’s back on the road to Bhadrapur, where we rest for the night before flying back to Kathmandu early on our final morning.