A Bit Mad and a Lot of Amazing
The Highest GHT Passes, solo, are you mad?
An Update from William Sommerville 12/4/24
Come with me as I solo the three highest passes and Tashi Labsa on the GREAT HIMALAYAN TRAIL HIGH ROUTE.
If you talk to any guide they will tell you not to solo the Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Labsta passes. It’s a well given warning. Setting out to solo these passes and Tashi Labsta should not be attempted without a lot of preplanning. The route thru these passes is difficult, strenuous and at times completely invisible. Attempting these passes solo in an ultralite manner is highly unadvisable. If you cant carry these items than soloing these high passes might not be for you. Multiple forms of mapping, GPS, a tent, down sleeping bag, insulate mattress, I prefer a pillow, stove and fuel, pot and spoon, two weeks food, fleece layers top and bottom, base layers top and bottom, 2 pairs medium thick socks, 1 pair heavy wool socks, 2 pairs base layer socks, at least on the heavy side good grade of boot, snow gator,  thick down pant and jacket, down mittens, outer shell mittens, outer shell jacket and pant/rain gear, balaclava, fleece hat, two 1L water bottles, water purification method, first aid kit, headlamp and solar panel, communication device preferably satellite receiver. Climbing gear including, harness, backup safety, glacier setup on harness including long cordalet, short cordalet for ascending, 1 pulley, various carabiners, short cordalet for prussik, ATC Guide or Figure 8 for repelling, glacier axe, helmet and crampon. Being prepared to solo these passes means being able to stop at any time and make camp. Daily recovery is one of the most important facets of long distance trekking and is even more important when soloing passes at 6000 + Meters. A hot meal, warm dry sleep clothes, warm down bag and eletrolytes can set the stage for a productive next day. Furthermore these items can get you back on track after a bad day. The least favourable reason but most important is to be able to sustain yourself in case of injury or serious injury. With that being said lets see what the Himalayas have to offer.
Sherpani Col Pass – 6180M SOLO
This section starts at Makalu Base Camp.
On my first day I went to Swiss Camp in Makalu. An enjoyable walk with an amazing view of the Barun Pokhari lake. This lake is fed by The Barun Glacier and Swiss Camp sits next to Barun also. I stayed the night here.
The following day I went to High Camp. There was no path to High Camp, following cairns and all bouldering!
Day 2 – Crossing the Sherpani Col
The next morning starts off bouldering until I reached a glacier that leads to the base of Sherpani. After a tough glacier walk I made it to the base of Sherpani Col. I stayed the night. The next morning, I started up the fixed lines – SOLO. Sherpani is not a route for beginners or trekkers with no mountaineering experience. It requires the use of Jumar or prussik, crampons, climbing harness and safetys and helmet. The first section is a steep ravine of ice and snow. This short section is difficult if carrying 23 to 25kg plus climbing and ice gear. From the ravine on there were cables and bouldering to the top where I came to a snow cap. The fixed cables are buried from here to the other side of the pass. It required me to unclip my safety and walk the cap up and over the top of Sherpani and down the other side till the fixed cables reappear. From there you can prussik and safety down the fixed cables. Some parts can be repelled or if you have a rope of your own you can repel your way down.
After making it down Sherpani Col in one piece, I stayed the night on the glacier.
Day 3 West Barun Galcier
When I got up the next morning, I started off across the West Barun Glacier towards West Col alone; then met up with a group of porters. I ended up traveling with them. Walking with porters is a welcomed experience. Watching how they carry themselves and their loads was an excellent learning opportunity.
After finally making it to West Col, there was a minor traffic jam – So we had a party at the pass! When the traffic died down the group started across a final snow and ice covered slope over to the pass. I chose to abseil down West Col.
Day 4-5Â AMPHU LABSA PASS- 5845M
At Amphu Labsa’s High Camp, I decided to take a rest day. This camp has a kitchen and a menu. It also has a few purchasable items like snacks.
The following day, I headed to Amphu Labsa Pass with a group of porters and their two clients.
Climbing up to Amphu Labsa Pass is mostly bouldering and climbing with fixed cables. Reaching the top it becomes very peaky. I chose to repel down. After the repel, I started down a steep cable free slope with ice and snow. Crampons eased the decent! At the bottom I stepped onto the Amphu Labsa Glacier. From here it is a rather pleasant walk to Chhukung.
Day 6-7 Chhukung to Tengboche to Namche
From Chukung I went to Tengboche Monastery, where I stayed the night.
Moving on from Tengboche is an amazing walk to Namche. If you go to Namche and you are into tattoos I would suggest you visit the worlds highest tattoo shop Nima Sherpa Ink. See Nima! He will take great care of you!
Day 8-9 Namche to Thame
My first stop was Thamo only a short distance from Namche. A few months earlier there was a glacial lake burst and it destroyed houses in Thame. At Thamo I was able to donate some money to the affected families. They graced me with their kindness and I was proud I was able to help, even in a small way.
Day 10-14 Tashi Labsta Pass 5760m to Na
The first night I stayed at the Tashi Lodge at Thyangbo. From there I went to a stone shelter that was along the way. Leaving this shelter I headed towards the beginning of the climb up towards Tashi High camp. I spent the night at Ngole. The following morning I started up the fixed cables towards Tashi High camp. Harness, backup and safeties and helmet.
Most of this climb I was safetied in with fixed cables. Bouldering and steep path make up the route to the high camp.
The whole night I was showered with small pebbles coming down from the sheer cliff above! The following morning I set out to cross Tashi, solo.
I started out up the glacier staying on the right hand side till I got close to the top. Working my way to the left a bit then turning right and arriving on top of Tashi Labsa. The way up was pretty windy and fortunately it was to my back. Shortly before topping Tashi the mountain showed its might. The wind was gusting 70 to 80 MPH. I was knocked over 2 times and my hands were starting to get numb. Taking pics and even looking at navigation on my phone wasn’t going to work. I had to drop my pack and get my down mittens and gortex shells off the back. I studied my route the night before and that morning again. After getting my hands warmed up I was able to start my decent down into the glacial ravine and made a left onto Drolambau Glacier. Here I met two groups of porters and clients coming the opposite way.
Their arrival was fortunate for me because I was able to follow the tracks left behind. Traveling about 3/4s of the way down Drolambau Glacier I camped with a group that was coming the other way. The next morning I went a short distance to the David Lama Shelter.
Coming down I was safetied into cables and worked my way down using steel steps and a ladder. Then a steep cable free decent onto Trakarding Glacier. This section was difficult due to pack weight and this glacier was difficult to navigate its intended path. There was very few cairns and the snow stakes were mostly knocked over. This glacier is full of tricky moraines and shortly after loosing all guiding features I was forced to cross to the other side and handrail the glacier down until I started seeing cairns again shortly before reaching Tsho Rolpa Lake. At the top of the lake I reached a shelter where I stayed for the evening.
These passes were amazing and difficult.
The GHT did not disappoint!
